[ad#left-336]First off get hold of a good dog shampoo, one that will not hurt the dogs eyes. If your dog has a skin condition or fleas then it is best checking with your pet shot to see what is available locally. Good pet shops are a great resource for finding answers to simple questions. If your dog has fleas then you will need a shampoo that your don’t dilute because you’d be diluting the active ingredients. Please don’t ever use dish washing liquid or ordinary shampoo they are bad for your dogs hair and skin.
You’ve decided to bathe the dog. First step is to give him a good brush, and I can’t over stress this – give him a good brush before bathing. By doing so you will help remove all the dead hair and all the shedding from your dog, if your dogs coat is knotted or tangled then it is vital that you remove these before bathing. Shampoo does not remove knotted or tangled hair it does the opposite it makes the matting tighter and more difficult to remove.
OK ready to bathe! Starting at the neck wet the dog well from neck to tail but avoid the head face and ears for now. Once you have your dog wet begin by shampooing his hind legs, move onto the tail and the rear end (yes that needs cleaned to!!) Now move to the body check and front legs in that order. Now that the body of the dog is completed move onto the head face and ears. Gently lather these areas and be careful not to get shampoo suds in the dog’s eyes even if you are using a tearless shampoo. So the shampooing is complete now comes the rinsing, and this really is an important part in bathing a dog. You can’t rinse enough – rinse, rinse, rinse!
When rinsing first rinse off the shampoo starting at the head and working in the opposite direction than when you shampooed him. When rinsing the underbelly of the dog have him stand on his hind legs by lifting his front paws. Keep rinsing until all traces of shampoo have disappeared and the water is running clear. If any shampoo remains on the dog it can lead to itching, flaking and skin problems.
We all know that when wet a dog will shake vigorously, to prevent this wrap him in a large towel to absorb excess water. Now start drying: face, head, ears, body, front legs, back legs and finally the tail. If there is someone to help me I tend to finish off with a quick go of the hair blower, needless to say watch the heat setting, keep the temperature low.
There is no need to wash a dog on a week basis, once a month is more than enough. I aim to bathe my dog about once every five-six weeks
]]>[ad#left-336]Care with your dogs food can go a long way to overcoming this problem, partly due to that fact that dogs often lack for certain nutrients and vitamins in their diet and are thus more likely to have skin issues and allergies than dogs which have a good balanced diet.
If your dog breed is known to suffer from allergies or skin conditions then these should be fed special diets, especially a diet containing fish as a major part of its makeup. I’ve found that some dogs often have a poor reaction to a particular brand of food,. The message here is simple start experimenting to see what food suits your dog best. There is no one answer, the right answer is to use the food that suits your particular dog.
If your food does not contain fish oil then add some to the food: salmon, sardine and anchovie oils are all great for a dogs coat. Some people prefer to give the dog a capsule of fish oil everyday others prefer to pour the oil over the food, either way is acceptable. I tend to pour oil over my dogs food.
It may be an old wives tale but it is true raw eggs can help to make hair shiny and soft. So don’t be afraid to mix the occasional raw egg up with your pets food. A maximum of three every two weeks is a good guide.
We stoke about fish oil above another good way to rehydrate and protect your pets coat and skin is to use olive oil. Try this: wet your dog’s hair with tepid water and then massage some olive oil into it, let it sit for approximately 30 minutes and then give your dog a good wash. This will help remove excess oil from the coat and skin.
While I try not to use commercial products there are some very good dog shampoos on the market and if you decide to go down this road then find one that also includes a conditioner that de-matts. You will also see pet shops offering products that are applied by spraying on the dog’s coat after a bath to help make it shiny.
One final thought don’t bath your dog to often as this can also have an adverse effect on its coat as a guideline no more than once every month. I wash my dog no often than once every six weeks.
]]>[ad#left-336]As you pass by their individual crates, you will notice that a lot of them will be crying and howling. Some will be quiet and oblivious, while others will be barking nonstop. All of them, however, are desperate for love and attention.
There are many reasons why dogs end up in a shelter. Sometimes it is because the elderly owner had to move to a nursing home and has nobody else to take their dog, or the owner dies and the rest of his family aren’t able to keep it. Another case is when the owner has to go on military duty or make a sudden move to a place that does not accept pets.
Another very common reason for dogs ending up in a shelter is because they have a behavioral problem and the owner does not know how to fix it. These two reasons, in my opinion, do not make sense and do not validate the owner’s love for their dogs.
Most shelter dogs are not aggressive and do not suffer from any behavioral problems. However, they may look a bit disoriented because they are experiencing shelter shock, which is a type of stress that comes from being left isolated and out of control.
The first thing that may come to your mind is to save as many of these dogs as you can. Although this is a great idea, it is not realistic nor practical to do. The best thing you can do is to adopt only as many dogs as you can handle. You may also encourage people you know who are looking for pets to go to the shelter and rescue a dog instead of going to a breeder.
By doing these two things, you will not only give these dogs a second chance at life, but you are also preventing them from facing an untimely and unnecessary death. I personally have a mutt that I rescued at a shelter in San Diego and she turned out to be one of the sweetest dogs that I own.
]]>[ad#left-336]An older puppy could be between 8 weeks to 6 months old. Puppies at this age are definitely ready to go to a new home. They have been weaned and are used to eating solid food. They have also started paper training so housebreaking them is easier, if not already accomplished. In addition, if an older puppy has had a happy home with plenty of socialization from the breeder, he is more likely to be a healthy dog that is not shy or aggressive.
Once you have found an older puppy, the next step is to determine whether he fits into the type of lifestyle that you have. It would be very unfortunate to get a dog, or any pet, only to have to return it because you aren’t able to take care of him.
Below is a list of factors you have to consider before bringing an older puppy home. Keep in mind however, that older puppies are more cautious of strangers and younger puppies, so give him some time to get used to you and his new living situation.
1. If you have children, have them meet the puppy before bringing the dog home. This is to make sure that the puppy will get along well with your kids. Ask the breeder if the puppy has been introduced to other people.
2. If you have other pets at home, determine if they have a positive connection with the puppy, and vice versa. If there are other animals in his current home, examine how the puppy behaves around them to see how he socializes with the other animals.
3. Ask the previous owner to lift the puppy and then watch what happens. Was he scared or act aggressive while being held? If so, this is not a good sign of a confident and healthy dog. Most puppies love to be held. Some may squirm a little, but will otherwise be okay with it.
4. Startle the puppy by making a sudden loud noise such as clapping your hands are dropping your keys right next to him. Examine how he reacts to it. Does he run and hide in a corner or does he look like he’s ready to attack? Both examples are signs of an insecure dog, but if he goes with the attack position then avoid adopting this dog at all costs as he may end up attacking a family member if accidentally surprised.
]]>[ad#left-336]An older puppy could be between 8 weeks to 6 months old. Puppies at this age are definitely ready to go to a new home. They have been weaned and are used to eating solid food. They have also started paper training so housebreaking them is easier, if not already accomplished. In addition, if an older puppy has had a happy home with plenty of socialization from the breeder, he is more likely to be a healthy dog that is not shy or aggressive.
Once you have found an older puppy, the next step is to determine whether he fits into the type of lifestyle that you have. It would be very unfortunate to get a dog, or any pet, only to have to return it because you aren’t able to take care of him.
Below is a list of factors you have to consider before bringing an older puppy home. Keep in mind however, that older puppies are more cautious of strangers and younger puppies, so give him some time to get used to you and his new living situation.
1. If you have children, have them meet the puppy before bringing the dog home. This is to make sure that the puppy will get along well with your kids. Ask the breeder if the puppy has been introduced to other people.
2. If you have other pets at home, determine if they have a positive connection with the puppy, and vice versa. If there are other animals in his current home, examine how the puppy behaves around them to see how he socializes with the other animals.
3. Ask the previous owner to lift the puppy and then watch what happens. Was he scared or act aggressive while being held? If so, this is not a good sign of a confident and healthy dog. Most puppies love to be held. Some may squirm a little, but will otherwise be okay with it.
4. Startle the puppy by making a sudden loud noise such as clapping your hands are dropping your keys right next to him. Examine how he reacts to it. Does he run and hide in a corner or does he look like he’s ready to attack? Both examples are signs of an insecure dog, but if he goes with the attack position then avoid adopting this dog at all costs as he may end up attacking a family member if accidentally surprised.
]]>[ad#left-336]Believe it or not the first question I would ask is whether or not you really need to buy pet insurance at all. I know a few people with several pets and what they’ve done is they opened up a separate bank account for their pets and for each pet they have they pay a fixed amount, by direct debit, into that account each month so when a visit to the vet is necessary the money is sitting there ready for use. Of course if there is a major accident then the question arises would there be enough in the kitty – well it is surprising how quickly £10 per month for the first pet and £5 per month for each additional pet adds up.
Maybe though you want the backing of a proper insurance policy rather than a do-it-yourself policy, well open up Google and do a little research on line. Visit a few pet forums and read what is been said there about pet insurance. Search the price comparison websites they are very good at finding bargains.
If this is the first time you’ve owned a pet then ask your local veterinarian what you’ll need to cover get a clear idea from him what you should buy. I would be very careful though about buying insurance from your veterinarian as they seldom are best value.
Speak to the broker who has insured your home for quite often they will be able to offer you a good deal; you may even be able to have pet insurance as an add on to your house insurance.
All medical treatments are expensive and it is essential that whether you put money aside each month to cover your pets health, or buy a stand alone pet insurance you really owe it to your pet to have his medical bill covered.
]]>Insulin Injections
[ad#left-250]Depending upon your dog’s needs, insulin injections will be given one to two times daily. The amount of insulin used for each dose and how often these doses are given will depend upon your veterinarian. Some dogs will be able to take tablets instead of being given shots.
Insulin doses are typically given in smaller amounts at the start of treatment so that the blood sugar levels can slowly stabilize. Under extreme circumstances this may require your dog to be treated in the hospital for a few days. If his diabetes is more stable, then your dog may receive outpatient treatment.
During this period, your dog’s blood sugar will be monitored every hour in order to determine the exact dose of insulin he will need on a regular basis. Once the correct measurement of insulin has been reached, your veterinarian will instruct you to monitor your dog by testing his urine and/or blood.
Proper Diet
With diabetes, there is nothing more important to increase your dog’s life expectancy than with a strict diet. In fact, it is so important to your dog to eat accordingly when he has this disease, that there is a chance that his diabetes can go into full remission just from the change of diet alone.
You should be feeding your diabetic dog meals that are high in fiber and low to moderate and carbohydrates. Now is the time to start cooking your dog’s meals from the home with meats and other raw ingredients.
Before you decide what to feed him, it would be wise to consult with a holistic veterinarian who has education on nutrition. Your goal should be to utilize food as “medication” so that hopefully one day your dog can stop taking “official” medication.
]]>How Do Dogs Get Diabetes?
[ad#left-250]In some cases, specific dog breeds are genetically prone to developing diabetes. Such dog breeds include the golden retriever, miniature schnauzer, and the standard poodle. These breeds may develop diabetes at a young age simply as a result of the type of dog they are.
For other dogs, it is theorized that diabetes is the result of another disease in the animal which destroys the cells of the pancreas, thus branching off to diabetes. However, for most dogs, diabetes is caused by too many carbohydrates in the diet mixed with an inactive lifestyle, which of course leads to obesity, and ultimately – diabetes.
The Lowdown On Carbohydrates
Just like what happens when humans consume too many carbohydrates, a dog’s blood sugar level will rise tremendously after eating a meal that is high in carbs. It happens extremely quickly as well. As a response to this, the body than uses insulin as a way to push the blood sugar back into the cells. Each of these cells have insulin receptors which open and close like a doorway in order to regulate the flow of blood sugar.
Through years and years of high carbohydrate eating, these “doorways” begin to break and eventually shut down. Your dog’s body then produces more insulin resulting in sporadic cycles of insulin resistance. Eventually the body will no longer be able to create the insulin needed to push back the blood sugar into the cells. The final result of this action is diabetes.
Other Ways Dogs Get Diabetes
Dogs that are overweight and older and age can also get diabetes from a very unique way. In many cases, these dogs came down with diabetes after they were given corticosteroid medication.
Whether it was by injection or tablet, the corticosteroids given to overweight pets seem to have caused the disease to set in. Researchers claim that these dogs were already genetically susceptible to diabetes and that the medication was just the trigger it needed. The good news for these types of diabetes cases is that with proper diet and medication, the disease may go into remission and the dog may be able to have his insulin discontinued indefinitely.
]]>[ad#right-336]Then there was his sudden appearance in my bathroom when my shower took longer than he thought reasonable, and the look of deep resentment if he was sprinkled with water as I reached for a towel.
I even miss the old causes of annoyance. These days, I can load the dishwasher without fighting a losing battle to stop Buster licking the plates, and I can leave the morning’s letters on the doormat without them being perforated by Buster’s teeth.
Now, I long to be inconvenienced again – to be forced by Buster’s persistence to go out in the freezing Peak District rain; to be woken in the middle of the night by his snoring; and to go through the complicated ritual of fastening on his safety harness in preparation for a journey.
In the car he would fall asleep and, if we were driving from London to Derbyshire, wake up with a whoop when we turned the corner into our village.
After he had inspected the house, room by room, he would sit on the first landing, staring out of the window and grumbling at the ramblers who changed into hiking boots sitting on our wall.
We played a game on the landing. Buster had to guess which of my hands – on the stair below him – held the biscuit. He pawed at my fingers without ever hurting me, and always won the biscuit in the end. It is one of the little things that it hurts me to remember.
Most dog owners regard their dogs as special, so I do no more than describe the qualities that I found irresistible.
Thanks to his energy, he imposed himself on all the lives around him. Doors banged open as he marched into the room. A morning rarely passed without him becoming entangled in the wires that connected my laptop to the world.
I could never lay a fire in the drawing room without him helping me by examining every log. When he saw bags in the hall, he sat among them – like a brindle suitcase – to make it clear that he was travelling, too.
A guest who sat on what he regarded as his sofa often found that Buster hurled himself into the next seat and leaned hard against his new friend, head on shoulder.
He was not so well-disposed towards cats, rabbits and domesticated rodents. But he liked people.
He became a favourite at book festivals. Literary old ladies travelled across country with ‘treats’ – which he never refused.
While I was speaking, he only barked during the applause or when, by putting my hand in my pocket, I gave the impression that I was about to produce a treat myself.
I have spent long hours during the past ten weeks thinking what it was – apart from the thrall in which I’m held by dogs in general – that bound me to Buster.
I enjoyed the knowledge that he was dependent on me, and I admired his apparent belief that I was dependent on him.
His appeal was increased by what is best described (despite the reputation he acquired after he killed one of the Queen’s unfortunate geese in St James’s Park, and I was fined for contravening Royal Parks’ regulations) as an aggressively affectionate nature.
But, most important of all, he radiated hope.
Whenever I opened the pantry door, he appeared behind me – assuming that I was getting something for him.
I would call him a born optimist, but I never made the anthropomorphic mistake of thinking of him as a little man in a fur coat, and dogs are not capable of thinking about the future.
He was never fed at table, and he slept in his own bed. Treating him like a dog was a mark of respect. Being a dog was enough. I asked for nothing more.
For 15 years, I watched him grow up, grow wise and grow old. His vet predicted he would be happy to the end, but that one day he would just be too tired to carry on.
‘When it happens, he will let you know,’ I was told.
And so he did. Every step of his brief morning walk was a struggle. Breakfast was eaten with slow determination. Then he lay down with no intention of ever getting up again.
The final decision had to be based on what was best for Buster. So the temptation to put off the fatal decision was resisted.
After a moment of agonising indecision, I made the fatal phone call. The vet arrived within the hour.
Buster died eating a piece of blue cheese – the muchdesired but forbidden food which he usually only tasted when it was wrapped around a pill.
I do not pretend that my grief was unique. Many families, I know, have been devastated by the death of a dog. I merely state, as a matter of fact, that nothing has ever caused me as much pain as Buster’s death.
Nor have I ever behaved with such a shameless display of emotion.
I sat in the first floor room in which I work, watching my neighbours go about their lives, amazed and furious that they were behaving as if it was a normal day. Stop all the clocks. Buster was dead.
He left a permanent legacy. Do not underestimate what a dog can do.
I never contemplated teaching him to sit-up-and-beg, shake hands or play dead. And Buster certainly never condescended to carry a rolled-up newspaper in his mouth or retrieve balls.
But he did – perhaps it is a minor achievement – change my life.
Some of the ways, I can describe. I gave up red meat because I could not bear the thought of eating anything that was Buster shape.
But there is more to his abiding influence than that. His real legacy is the memory of the pleasure he provided.
Birth and upbringing – and an almost-labrador called Dinah – made me a dog person. Buster ended the years of deprivation, and made a return to dogless life unthinkable.
Of course, there were times when it seemed that even the thought of another rescued cross-breed in the kitchen was a betrayal. But after ten weeks, the search has begun.
The new dog will not be a replacement. Buster was irreplaceable. His successor will be a dog in his own right.
But he will be a reassertion of all that Buster stood for: the incalculable blessing of possessing a dog.
]]>[ad#left-336]Most dogs love to nestle in your lap. However, as your dog gets bigger he is less likely to stay there once you pick him up. So that is what we’re going to teach you today – how to get your dog to jump into your lap whenever you want him to (regardless of his size).
Step 1: Your dog must first understand the “stay” command so that you can place him across the room and have him stay while you go to the other side away from him.
Step 2: While on the opposite side of your dog, you should be sitting in a low chair while holding one of his favorite treats or toys. Now pat your lap and very enthusiastically say the following three commands “Sparky” – “Come Here” – “Up, Up!” Of course substitute my dog’s name for your dog’s name and do not expect him to jump into your lap right away. Initially, he will run up in a very excited manner and place both his paws on you.
Step 3: Once he arrives, simply shower him with praise and offer the treat or the toy, whichever one you are using. Now lead him back to his starting point and repeat the process least 10 more times.
Step 4: Do not continue to praise him for just coming up to you and pawing at you once you reach the 10th time. Now it is time to only praise after he comes and crawls into your lap. You will have to help with motivation by scooping him up a little, but eventually he will get the idea and will literally bounce into your lap in order to get the treat.
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